Malaiyyo, Before the Sun
A sweet made of winter dew and milk foam, gone by nine.
Malaiyyo is milk boiled, left out overnight under the winter sky, then whipped by hand until it is mostly air. It tastes of saffron and very little else, which is the point.
By nine the sun has made it impossible. So you eat it at seven, in a clay cup, standing in an alley that has not changed since your grandfather ate it here.