Flip

Tal Chhapar is a small sanctuary, barely seven square kilometres of grass. On a map it looks like nothing. On the ground it holds more than two thousand blackbuck.

The males are the colour of strong coffee, with spiral horns. They hold small territories and spend the mornings pretending not to look at each other.

It is a ridiculous bird and a magnificent one, tall as a child, with a walk like a retired general. It cannot see power lines well, and power lines are what is killing it.