After Ten at Chowk
The kebab lanes only really open when the rest of the city closes.
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At ten the shutters come down on the cloth shops and the smoke goes up from the kebab stalls. The lane changes owners every night.
Galouti, soft as butter, cooked on a tawa wide as a cartwheel. The man who makes them has been doing it for forty years and has never once eaten one standing up.