Four Days to Kedarkantha
Notes from a winter trek, written in a tent with cold hands.
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Day one is easy and everyone lies about how easy it is. Day two is pine forest and snow that squeaks. Day three is the camp below the summit, where nobody sleeps.
We left for the top at three in the morning. By the time the sun came up, the ridges behind us had turned the colour of the inside of a shell, one layer paler than the next, all the way to Tibet.